C. goes Africa

In spite of everybody reassuring me there are a lot of Foreigners (French, German, Chinese,..) living in Yaoundé I most of the time felt quite lonely in my “whiteness” (not counting the numerous albino people). Still gathering some curious looks on me in the streets, people in the neighbourhood had already accepted my presence and probably assumed me being the wife of one of the Yimga sons´. Anyway still I´m often spontaneously addressed to “Bonjour la blanche”, and more than once I had the discussion about European women marrying Cameroonian men – leading to more or less obvious marriage proposals (none of which I have accepted so far!)Most of the times I encounter curiosity and friendliness and though German colonisation didn´t seem to be one of the funniest times ever, people are still rather thankful towards the ´goods´ the ´Germans´ brought – to the very contrary to what´s the general mood towards France. But colour of skin is not the only characteristic by which I differ to the Cameroonian. I´m probably the person moving the fastest in whole Cameroon. Never met anybody being able to go a distance that amazingly slowly. Every step seems like an effort, every distance invincible. As mentioned definition of time is different. Therefore you´re never really under pressure. If I don´t come today, I´ll be there tomorrow. Things happen when they happen. Work and people can wait. A delay of some hours should always be taken into account. Actually I think I did a very good job in assimilating to this characteristic of society.  Anyway this understanding and mentality makes things so extremely difficult to organize. I rewind whatever I might have said earlier about the political situation in this country. Stable still (already for 25y with the very same president – who´s right now trying to install the law for “vote for lifetime” – and passing on of the title to his son after death). Anyway no dictator regime, but far off from democracy anyway. Anarchy rules this country. Pure anarchy. Everybody does what he wants and tries to get a piece of the cake. Corruption is prosperous. Actually a quite sad situation. Which maintains itself in a vitous circle. The government doesn´t show any interest in changing anything or developing the country and unfortunately the intelligent force of the society is leaving for better opportunities abroad. Brain drain is reality.

It´s hard to give a picture of my impressions on the Cameroonian society.

First thing which stroke me – and I´m still struggling to understand – is the engaged way of discussing. No matter how unimportant the issue is the dialogue can quickly reach a point of surprising intensity and discussions can easily be misunderstood as arguments or quarrels.
Intonation is usually loud and expressive, mostly accompanied by strong gestures and lively mimics and to make things clear sentences might be repeated not only once.

In any way the society seems pretty rough to me and very hierarchic. It´s a society of service for which you are paid or simply obliged to offer because of your social status (in family, ..). “Donne-moi!” (give to/hand me..), “attends!” (wait),.. do this do that and who´s in a position of power takes advantage of this. You try to take profit. You need to survive. Money is a steady concern. Prices are always discussed. And if there´s something you don´t consider as correct you make your point clear.
On the very contrary in front of persons of respect (militaries, also doctors, intellectuals, ..) the loudest and proudest Cameroonian falls silent and appears nearly shy. To get a clear answer one sometimes need to ask quite explicitly and if people do understand you can never guess from their facial expressions. It´s amazing how much indifference people carry on their faces. Nothing really seems to touch them and eye contact is rarely held while talking to people. Impoliteness is hard to define under this circumstances. Sadness, fear or even anger might be interpreted in this indifference but maybe people simply really don´t care.

C´est un petit peu comme ca.

On the other hand as soon as you find out you might know the same person or even the “grande soeur” of your neighbour´s “bel fille” is the “petites soeur” of the others working colleague you won a new friend. My friend´s friend is also my friend.
And here we enter the whole world of hospitality and friendliness.

I was carried along already into a couple of private houses of divers patients, friends or family members and it seems nothing special that people just step by no matter if alone or in a whole group, known or unknown. Without explicitly invited you make yourself comfortable, talk, watch TV (which is practically running all day long) and leave after an appropriate time – which might range from min to hours. If within the possibilities of your host you´re always offered something to drink and eat. Sitting facilities are usually numerous and partly occupied by some of the countless family members who are not part of the working world. It should be taken care that the carpet is respected which means you always undress your feet as soon as you are approaching a carpet – which again is easily done because the overall popular footwear consists in slippers.

Tu vois un peu, non?!

Overall I have to state that everywhere I went to, and was went to respectively, I was welcomed warmly. People were interested getting to know me and happy about the respect and interest I payed to their country by the pure fact of having taken the effort and coming to Cameroun. I shared already a thousand times my telephone number and email adresses occasionally and was given bracelets and other things by mere strangers to bring back home some souvenirs from Africa to friends and family. preoccupation or suspicion seem unknown. Amazing hospitality.

for protocol: tuesday, 13.11.07, 11.54 test Widal & Felix pos.